Important fact...they are on the jersey shore. We are not talking major waves here.... There is one kid who doesn't wait. He takes wave after wave, some short runs, many long runs along the wave instead of catching & riding the top of the wave to the shore.This kid is gangly with really long arms and hunched over form but he is getting lots of ride time! He is getting lots of experience, learning what works, what doesn't. There's ni right or wrong way, to learn to surf or to live your life, but by jumping in more often than not you get more rides & learn more tha waiting for life to show up.
It is an apt analogy for life, is it not?
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